Trapping Predators

1pheas4

Moderator
I'm considering trapping next fall/winter for coons, mink, etc. to help cut down on predation in a couple pheasant areas. I don't know the first thing about traps and what to do with the furs.

Does anyone have any advice on the subjuct? Also, who buys the furs from trappers (where do you drop them off) and are you supposed to tan them prior to selling them or bring the animimal in whole?:confused:

Thanks for any help.:) --1pheas4
 
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Yep, you're in your trapping infancy. There are volumes of books and videos on the subject. Like hunting, it's a lifelong learning experience. I'm sure I can't do it justice on a thread like this, but it'll be a start. From the species you listed, you may be doing mainly water trapping with foot-hold type traps. There is also the option of using snares and conibear type traps if you can be sure no dogs or other pets and livestock can get caught. Box traps are also an option, but they are heavy and expensive.

The #1 or #1.5 coil spring foot hold trap is probably what you will want to assault coon and mink. The 1.5 can also be used for fox. A typical water set is the pocket set. It is essentially a hole dug into the bank of the creek or river you're trapping at waterlevel with the trap in the entrance and bait in the back of the hole above water. A lure can also be used and would be recommended. There are numerous commercial lures available. For supplies and books/videos, look at www.fntpost.com . You will want to use a drowning wire set up. Hard to describe, but it is essentially a wire that is staked in deep water near the set and a second stake at the trap site. A drowning lock is used to attach to the wire so that when an animal is caught, it dives for deep water and the lock prevents it from resurfacing. This prevents trapped animals from fighting the trap and escaping.

Furs are a whole other topic and also a lifelong endeavor to become good at processing. For coon, mink, possum, skunk, and a number of other furbearers, the animal is skinned "cased" which is to split the hide from ankle to ankle via the anus and removing the skin like a sock. The eyelids, nose, lips, ears, etc remain intact with the pelt. The front legs are cut off about the elbow. They are "fleshed" (all fat and meat removed) using a fleshing knife and fleshing beam before being stretched inside out over a wooden or wire stretcher to dry. Pelts are not tanned, only dried before selling. In recent years, most fur harvesters skin their catch and roll them up, put them in plastic bags, and freeze them. They then sell them "green" to the fur buyer. You find fur buers by calling you wildlife department and asking for a list. Contacting your state furharvester club is also a way to find reputable fur buyers. Furharvesting can be as big a passion as bird hunting. You can invest a lot of time and money in it, or you can do it fairly lean. What ever you choose, you can have a lot of enjoyable memories and fun doing so. Before I have to look for a publisher, I'll end this book:)
 
Thanks for your reply and all your tips/inforPD:thumbsup: I think my next move may be to tag along with a trapper next season. As you made clear there is a lot to be learned with trapping.

One other thing. I saw a video on a tube trape (from a compandy called bugspray??) for mink. It looked very simple and easy to set up/use. Do you have an opinion on this trap by chance. Thank again:) --1pheas4
 
I find that the more specialized the trap is, the fewer spots there are where you can use it. Mink want to go into almost every hole that they find. If you make the previously described pocket set under an obvious set of undercut roots, most every mink that passes by will investigate. I didn't mention before, but it is important to bed your traps. You can't just set them on the substrate and expect them to function properly. They have to be bed so that they don't rock or tip when an animal misses the pan and steps on the jaws, frame, or spring. Yes, find a trapper and tag along. You'll learn more in a day that you would reading for weeks. As a hint, look at your section of stream on an aerial photo. Focus your efforts where two streams come together, where older "den" trees are most dense, and where you'd expect furbearer food to be available. I usually don't just walk blindly down a stream setting traps. I scout early then I'll set 3-4 sets in a location to adequately cover both banks. Then I'll jump out into the adjacent field or meadow and go down a quarter mile or so and set another group. Be cognizant of adjacent corn fields, nut groves, feed lots, or other attractions that will localize the coon population. On mink, remember that they may only pass your way once every week or two. You have to be ready when they come by or your neighboring trapper will have it in his basket before it can come by again. The Complete Cooner by Ray Milligan is a good book. Enjoy your new sport. Get a pro to show you how to skin and prepare fur. Does you no good to go to all the work to catch the fur to ruin it in the fur shed. Seen it before. No better feeling than taking a pile of prepared fur into a furbuyer and have him walk away from a fella selling crap to pay you top dollar right in front of the guy then explain to that fella the difference. I had a furbuyer take me underwing when I was 12 or 13 and show me the "right" way. It's paid off dozens of times.
 
Man, you've got me looking forward to the next trapping season already Prairie Drifter. I'm looking very much forward to seeing that first mink on a trap. :thumbsup:

I have one more question for you if you don't mind. I'm in the process of going to taxidermy school. This spring I'll learn how to tan furs/hides. You mentioned that you bring your furs in "green". Do fur buyers take tanned furs? If so, what's the pay differnce for tanned vs. green? Would it be worth it my time to tan or just turn them in green? --1pheas4
 
No, furbuyers want either raw-green furs or stretched and dried. The International buyers at the big sales will be buying only stretched and dried furs and the eventual buyers will do their own tanning.
 
Don't set any trap so a birddog can be caught.
It seems to me that goes without saying. :rolleyes:

I sell my skins in the green (skinned only - no extra work fleshing them, etc). You don't get as much money for it because they guy who buys them and puts in the finishing work gets a piece of the pie too, but that's fine with me. I don't enjoy the finishing aspects - I mainly trap for predator removal. While it's not a complete answer, I think it's better if there are only a couple coons/opossums running around rather than a dozen.
 
reread Prairie Drifters post- it's good

I grew up in N Minn. we had a river between two lakes- dad started taking me with him when I was 8- we'd run the trap line every morning and evening- third year he let me set 2 traps-

mink were his goal- fresh skinned complete to arround the eyes and toes and no nicks- and stretched on wooden boards fur side in- we'd get $45.00 for a nice male, $35.00 for a nice female- any white took off some value- a fur buyer would come into town every saturday

it was important- that was our Christmas money

I have two of my origianl traps- great memories

you might want to check your local library- could be they might have or could get some of the old and new trapping books-
I used to go in with mom and read and check out the trapline books- still enjoy reading the old trapline stories
 
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Man, you've got me looking forward to the next trapping season already Prairie Drifter. I'm looking very much forward to seeing that first mink on a trap. :thumbsup:

I have one more question for you if you don't mind. I'm in the process of going to taxidermy school. This spring I'll learn how to tan furs/hides. You mentioned that you bring your furs in "green". Do fur buyers take tanned furs? If so, what's the pay differnce for tanned vs. green? Would it be worth it my time to tan or just turn them in green? --1pheas4

Dirt hole sets work well for yotes and fox. Dont rule out snares, they are great in fences and weed choked areas set them about 4-6 inches off the ground and 10inches in dia. no need to use lockers and if a none target gets caught it wont hurt them. I use dirty dirt hole traps for my water sets.(trap that has been dyed and waxed that has caught something):cheers: Raw furs, we just skin and freeze till we get a bunch. Fur prices have been down since the 80s...:(
 
I am not a big fan of snares at all.
The best trap set for coon is a bucket set like I posted in the lounge for Coot. (220) They work great
http://www.ultimatepheasanthunting.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6440

. The dirt hole is a great way for the fox and yotes. Yotes are the toughest to catch. A burried deer carcas with a few leg holds does a good job in the snow. They can't resist that. But you need to be sent free for the dogs. That bucket will weed out all your coon, possum, skunks and ferral cats in no time. Smelt is the best bait. For mink a 110 conibear in a run or some nice water sets with jump traps work great. kind a wierd they will always be dead dry land or not in a leg hold. They just freak out so much they kill them selves. Unless your there right away. I like to burry a 4" tile drain black corrigated, in a bank by the water edge and place it so a #1 jump can sit in the water just in front of the opening. Toss in a few minnows or something and they go right in. Winter trapping the sloughs where there runs are layed out I love the 110s they scamper right through and no bait.:thumbsup:
 
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spent a month in Alaska hunting and trapping- we found snares very usefull- #1 way to catch beaver when the river froze over

but heck- as 9 year olds we learned how to set up a snare

btw- your traps for mink- on land either dead or

we checked our trap line twice a day- if the mink trap was so that the mink couldn't try to swim and drown- and if it was in there very long- it would chew it's own foot off to get loose

did you specificaly trap for mink
 
I should have said dry land snares I am not fond of. Sorry Shadow, under water has never had an issue. All traps can put a bad name out there for trappers if not used right. But as a trapper for many years, It is well known among the community that the snare is the most difficult trap to set with out discrimination. Out of all the traps they do the most damage to non target animals. Thats the reason I don't use them. I am all for ones free rights however and have never considered raising a stink about them. This is just my opinion. We need more trappers out there.:thumbsup: But we also need responsible ones too so it stays enjoyable to future generations to come.
 
I talked to our furbearer biologist today about this very topic. He sent me the list of proposed new regulations. For the most part they are an effort to legislate agains stupid. It's tough to propose a set of regulations for a sport that don't significantly inhibit the constituents ability to practice their sport and still be restrictive enough to keep stupid from being rampant. Even the two of us had different interpretations of "the gripping portion must be in contact with water" when regulating how 330 conibears are set.
 
I agree 100% Troy, we can't legislate stupidity. You could take away rights to every thing and stupid would still be there. Some states just do away with things that cause trouble. Like snares for example. The 330 in MN has to be sub merged in water, and still works very effective for beaver. Bow hunting a year ago I saw my first wild fisher running around that was neat. I caught an Otter once and had that tanned. Other wise not really any out of the ordinary critters any other times. Caught a wood duck once, but for the most part I have had no trouble with non target critters.:thumbsup: ever.
 
I should have said dry land snares I am not fond of. Sorry Shadow, under water has never had an issue. All traps can put a bad name out there for trappers if not used right. But as a trapper for many years, It is well known among the community that the snare is the most difficult trap to set with out discrimination. Out of all the traps they do the most damage to non target animals. Thats the reason I don't use them. I am all for ones free rights however and have never considered raising a stink about them. This is just my opinion. We need more trappers out there.:thumbsup: But we also need responsible ones too so it stays enjoyable to future generations to come.

If you use none locking snares and check your line everyday not a problem. Hunting dogs will sit like on a leash. Keep the loop just large enough to catch target, larger animal will just knock them down going down a trail, beagles are most likely hunting dog to get caught going through fence. 220s, dog gets caught in one of those you better be Johnny on the spot .In my area of Ohio and KY been years with out dogs being caught. We move our sets after 7-10 days to other areas.:cheers:
 
I agree Bob and am not trying to stir a pot. But most often many guys will go the cheapest route. Buy bulk cable or wire and thats it. They stick it on a game run on a fence line where too many other animals follow. Deer etc.,They are the problem. And the thing is that there is a bunch of people that don't do it responsible like your self. I wish they would. Trappers need quiet power so to speak. And when one trapping form or another is popping up causing trouble because of misuse, it does all of us harm. The 220 that I am fond of is no different when placed without thought.
 
I agree Bob and am not trying to stir a pot. But most often many guys will go the cheapest route. Buy bulk cable or wire and thats it. They stick it on a game run on a fence line where too many other animals follow. Deer etc.,They are the problem. And the thing is that there is a bunch of people that don't do it responsible like your self. I wish they would. Trappers need quiet power so to speak. And when one trapping form or another is popping up causing trouble because of misuse, it does all of us harm. The 220 that I am fond of is no different when placed without thought.

This is a good thread.:cheers::thumbsup:
I stopped using locking snares back in my 20s now 50:( Just no need for them. Wild animal will pull till death a dog wont.
Love dirt hole sets. I have always set mine in open fields but make my holes on a 20 degree angle and tuck the 1 1/2 coil up tight. Fox is small and he has to get close to check the hole. Most hunting dogs are taller and can check the hole farther back and not trip the trap and just go on. I pull my dirt hole traps after 1st use and reset the hole. Old trap goes to water sets after that.
:cheers:
 
spent a month in Alaska hunting and trapping- we found snares very usefull- #1 way to catch beaver when the river froze over

but heck- as 9 year olds we learned how to set up a snare

btw- your traps for mink- on land either dead or

we checked our trap line twice a day- if the mink trap was so that the mink couldn't try to swim and drown- and if it was in there very long- it would chew it's own foot off to get loose

did you specificaly trap for mink

I always wanted to that (ALASKA) as a kid. Would lay in bed at night thinking about all the fox and game up there.:cheers:
 
I always wanted to that (ALASKA) as a kid. Would lay in bed at night thinking about all the fox and game up there.:cheers:

brutal, dangerous

brother ran a trap line for Fox- would check it before school- he was good
I was lucky enough to run arround with the villages best hunter and trapper- an Innuet Eskimo

we spent some time after Wolverines- caught a Lynx- everyone in the village was after it- very high dollar pelt

FC- no offense taken- we trapped our river for some 30 years- never were fond of land sets- but for weasels- yea- favorite way was to nail a piece of chicken to a tree- set a #1/2 below- mean little critters- would jump at your face when in a trap
 
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